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Marc111's

Polarlights Enterprise 1701 Refit
 

1/350th Scale


Click here for page 1...you know you want tothis one will get you to page 2 and so will the one at the bottomGet thee hence to the marvellous page 3 by clicking hereIndeedly, 'Tis page 4 herePage 6, That's what the orange arrows tell you. Good innit.Yep, we upto number 7 already


 

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Oh'Boy Now its Time to Correct the Dorsal


I swear this is the most frustratingly inaccurate part of the ship due to the subtlety of the corrections needed.  Just to refresh:

My first step was to correct the rear of the torpedo deck.  The inside of each half of the dorsal was thickened with Apoxie Sculpt in order to make sure my sanding would not break through the plastic.  Then the rear sides were sanded down to produce a uniform rear ramp as seen at A.

Once that was complete I tackled the hard part, building up the sides so that the long rear surface ramp (at B) was the same width along its entire length.  On the kit it starts out correct at the top and thins as it approaches the torpedo exhaust at the bottom.  Each side was built up with Apoxie Sculpt.  This requires a soft increase in thickness and must be started at least 1/2 inch back from the edge.  As you can see from the picture below the buildup gets heavier as you approach the base.  The end result you want is a smooth continuation of the surface of the sides blending into the buildup.   After much sanding and polishing I was able to blend the contours nicely.

With the sides fixed I turned to the Torpedo Exhaust piece that insets into the main dorsal at the rear.  The kit piece is the correct width at its rear end (the slanting end) but too wide at the front end.  At the front end it matches the width of the outer walls of the dorsal at that point.  This is correct for the Refit-A but incorrect for the Refit.  The refits exhaust grill was stepped in on each side relative to the outer dorsal hull as can be seen in the studio picture.  To correct the part I used a jewelers saw to cut a slot in the solid top of the piece almost all of the way to the front.  This allowed me to squeeze in the walls the necessary bit.  While they were clamped that way I glued some styrene sheet onto the top both inside and out.  Once the glue dried this left me with a solid part that held the correct shape.

 

Below you can clearly see how the altered part looks when placed into the dorsal.  The same step is present as in the studio model at the forward end.

 

Now on to yet other details.  The docking ports have been drilled out preparatory to adding the PE ports and lighted window slots.  The vertical line of windows are filled in ready for re-drilling.  Whats left?  Oh yeh the front and top.   

Along the front surface at the top is a rectangular indent.  In the kit this indent scales as being too long from top to bottom.  It is not supposed to go up beond the place where the angle of the front surface changes but it does on the kit part.  The top goes up to high relative to the studio model.   By doing some careful filling with ApoxieSculpt I was able to lower the top edge approximately 0.1 in. with an appropriate build up.  The decals will still work and now it looks right.

The final detail to be corrected on the front is the torpedo housing.  On the kit its outer and inner corners are way to sharp.  These needed to be rounded off and the holes for lighting access cut through. 

Finally the other painful part, the saucer mating structure boss at the top of the dorsal.  Its rear downward tip goes too far below the scribed line / red stripe.  The only way to fix this is to sand / file away the boss, which I did.  I then had to file back in the minute step that runs along its outer rim.  What a pain, but I like the look better.

Studio Model

My Modified Dorsal

versus the original

Once the holes for the vertical line of windows were redrilled, (see below).  This is the correct window look alongside the vertical detail. 

   

This left only the docking ports left to do.    I would like these to both light up like the studio model and have a more accurate door detail.   For the door detail I will use PMT's PE parts.  In order to provide a light slot I first drilled out the original door so I could construct the light slot and add a new door piece.  The rest of the door details can be found on my engineering hull page.


Click here for page 1...you know you want tothis one will get you to page 2 and so will the one at the bottomGet thee hence to the marvellous page 3 by clicking hereIndeedly, 'Tis page 4 herePage 6, That's what the orange arrows tell you. Good innit.Yep, we upto number 7 already


  

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